HONDATA DYNO RESULTS !!!

where do you set your cam gear at? can i set mine the same way?

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94 integ ls, auto, JRSC, boost 8psi(CRV pully). apxi cat back no cat, RSR gsr header4-2-1,AEM cam gear, apex S-afc, apex rev-speedmeter, MAX speed intake.

Dam I have been gone for some time and when I come back I could not believe the progress of this board!! I give a fat thumbs up to Jim and all his hard work, determination, time, and money he put into this experiment. Makes me proud to see the efforts put into thes Honda's as a group on this discussion board. Again thanks to everybody who helped contribute! http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif

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how does teh hondata setup compare to what ZIP has been working on?



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'98 GSR JRSC with all sorts of high-performance, high-tech, overpriced stuff packed in all over the place.
http://www.donia.org/clandestine

Sorry gang for the delayed reply... I took the wife, grandson and dog to the beach for a long weekend !!!

To answer the question above: I used the stock JR location to source the vaccuum/boost signal that the OE (B&M modified) fpr sees... now remember that the regulator DOES NOT increase fuel pressure any farther than ZERO boost... so plugging it to a NA source as opposed to a vac/boost source makes NO difference.

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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph

.....just bringing this post back from the dead. Maybe this will help some decide on what works and what works only 10hp better..... [img]frown.gif[/img] I knew i remembered this post for a reason [img]wink.gif[/img]

not worth the money inmy opinion... unless u get increased reliability with hondata, but still, i dont think it'd be worth it, no matter what

Whether a standalone system is worth it or not depends on the owner of the car. I myself don't have a Hondata, but rather an AEM EMS system. Was it worth it to me? Dam right it was. Why?

You are just so limited with what you can do with the normal piggy-backs. You can only use those AFC's to tune your A/F at certain parts of the rpm when the standalone does everything. Plus the standalone takes care of timing, boost, fuel, you name it. I've pretty much ditched my piggy-back stuff in favor of the EMS.

Then you are stuck with the limited size injectors that you can use. Sure you can do a hack, but thats just more risks from using those DSM injectors with spliced up wires and resistor boxes. Why bother when the standalone can just recognize it and tune accordingly? Its just a no brainer.

For some reason everyone seems to be stuck with how much HP you get. I've gotton past that and set my goals on how well the engine is tuned. You have to remember that the standalone is not a HP ading tool but yet a tunning tool. Shit 10HP from a tuning tool is GOLD.

Take it this way. When you add a HP device (Intake, Header, Exhaust, etc) you are lucky to even get 10HP from one single upgrade. And you look at the standalone, which is only a tuning tool, but gave him 10HP!Which do you think is better?

And a final note, if everyone is still stuck on HP and Torque figures, I think SC HYBID is the best example. Yeah he may have spent a fortune to get his setup (JRSC @ 13-14psi and custom IC) to get only 235+Hp at the wheels, but he's doing low 12's. How many 235HP JRSC equipped cars do you see doing those times?

The point of this post was to try to help those of you who felt that the standalone wasn't a good investment see why people do it. Its more than just gaining a few HP here and there. But rather the few extra HP gains here and there are the bonuses that you get from the standalone

<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ April 23, 2003 08:18 PM: Message edited by: sak ]</font>

Presuming that you go with a s100 hondata system w/boost, for a obd1 car it really is not that much more expensive (if at all) then the standard bandaid route. Especially if you keep things simple at 6psi. For example, this is what i recently paid for my setup for my 1995 gsr sedan. The charger will be installed next week. [img]biggrin.gif[/img]

Hondata s100b 460 (new)
DSM injectors 78 (used/cleaned/balanced)
Resistor box 25 (used)
Total $563
VS.
Walbro 255 FP 100 (new)
JR MAP 125 (used)
Cartech 150 (used)
BTM/MSD 200 (used)
Total $575

Now, where things can add up, as we have seen is in the tuning...but either setup will require dyno time to get things perfect. Additionally, if you get a good base hondata map to start with, you shouldn't need to drop $$$ right away. The Hondata is a simpler install, less wires = less mess and more power on average.

BTW - I hope to mimic Cody's (Cotay) results on this board, and be in the 230whp range at 6psi.

What if you just run a Cartech with the original JR "clicker" relay, no boost retard(just backed off timing), and no J&S(use your EARS!)with some 270cc injectors and make close to 250whp like that? Thatd be pretty cool, wouldnt it? Good grief, its not gonna kill the motor if if you run .1 or .3 rich/lean throught the powerband, just so long as your at or around 12.5-ish at WOT.

Also, i fail to see where the person burning a chip on the dyno COST comes into play? I mean, lets get serious, its only a Honda, its only 6-10psi of boost. People have done this since way back in '93 i imagine, stop making a mountain out of a mole-hill [img]graemlins/thumbs_down.gif[/img]

I still think its the "WOW" factor of the so called standalone thats luring people. [img]graemlins/wilted.gif[/img]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#333333" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" bgcolor="#FF9900"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor="#DDDDDD"><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">maybe it's that I'm cheap but ~$1100 for ~10 HP doesn't sound like a great deal to me.</font></td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yeah, that doesn't include dyno time at over $100.00 an hour.